Himat Jewellers L.L.C.

DIAMOND

The Diamond is the birthstone of April and the anniversary gemstone for the 10th and 60th years of marriage. Since diamonds are composed of a single element, they are the purest of all gemstones. Diamonds were discovered in India in 500 B.C., and the name “diamond” comes from the Greek word “Adamas” which means unconquerable – suggesting the eternity of love.
Since ancient Greece, diamonds and diamond jewelry have been the traditional symbol of love, and the ancients believed they were hardened dew drops, splinters from the stars or crystallized lightning. Today, the gem-grade diamonds are used to make fine jewelry and engagement rings. The industrial-grade diamonds are used mainly for cutting and polishing. A diamond is the hardest substance known to humankind, and is made of a crystallized carbon that has unique powers of light reflection.

The Structure of a Diamond

Proportion refers to the angles and relative measurements of a polished diamond. More than any other feature, proportions determine a diamond’s optical properties. Studies have shown that table size, crown angle, and pavilion depth have a dramatic effect on a diamond’s appearance.

Symmetry is a grading term for the exactness of shape and placement of facets. Variations in symmetry include off-center culets and tables, poor facet alignment, misshapen facets, out-of-round girdles, and wavy girdles.

The Value of a Diamond: The Four C’s

1. Diamond Cut

The Cut is the factor that determines the brilliance of a diamond. A classic round brilliant cut diamond has 58 facets: 33 on the top, 24 on the bottom, and the culet (1 point at the bottom). Each of the diamond’s facets must be placed in exact geometric relation to one another when the stone is being cut. Quality diamonds must be properly cut and not “spread”, which means that the proper proportions are compromised to make the diamond weigh more.

2.Diamond Clarity

Clarity is one of the fundamental attributes of a diamond and it is determined by the size, number position and nature of the inclusions, or internal characteristics of a stone.

The fewer inclusions or blemishes there are in or on the diamond, the higher the clarity grade and therefore value. The type of inclusions that affect the clarity can include scratches, blemishes, and pockets of air or non-diamond material inside or on the surface of a stone.

Accurate grading must be done with loose stones as jewellery mounts and settings can often conceal imperfections.

Flawless or Internally Flawless: FL or IF

Flawless and Internally Flawless certified diamonds are extremely rare. The difference between the two is that internally flawless diamonds (IF), like the FL, are 100% flawless from the inside but IF diamonds will contain surface graining on the outside. These are not technically considered a flaw, but consist in the only point of differentiation between the extremely rare Flawless and the very rare IF clarity grades. FL or IF diamonds may also be referred to as ‘LC,’ meaning “Loupe Clean.

 Very Very Slightly Included 1: VVS1

 A diamond of this clarity grade would have one tiny inclusion that can only be located using a powerful microscope. This clarity grade guarantees that the inclusion is invisible even under a 10x magnification loupe. This clarity grade is almost as rare as the IF clarity and as such is highly regarded although not quite as expensive.

Very Very Slightly Included 2: VVS2

These diamonds would only have two tiny inclusions and consistent with the VVS1 grading only a microscope would identify inclusions. However, expert graders may be able to locate a VVS2 inclusion using a 10x magnification loupe but VVS2 still offer a very high level of clarity and are less expensive price than a VVS1.

Very Slightly Included 1: VS1

 VS1 diamonds have one small or a few very tiny inclusions that are not visible to the unaided eye (eye clean) and can only be located, often with difficulty, using a 10x magnification loupe. VS1 clarity diamonds are an excellent choice as they are still eye-clean whilst being less expensive than the VVS categories.

Very Slightly Included 2: VS2

 Usually VS2 diamonds have a series of tiny inclusions that like the VS1 grade can only be located using a 10x magnification loupe. VS2 clarity diamonds are an extremely popular as it is the last grade which virtually guarantees an eye clean diamond. In 95% of cases VS2 diamonds are eye clean. Rare exceptions, may include VS2 diamonds on EGL or IGI certificates (extremely rare on IGI) and in certain cases, Emerald and Asscher cut diamonds, which may not always be eye clean, even on GIA certificates. The type of inclusions here would generally be two small inclusions or a series of tiny ones.

Slightly Included 1: SI1

 SI1 graded diamonds have two medium or many small inclusions that will almost always be visible to the unaided eye and are easy to locate using a 10x magnification loupe. Depending on how well placed and lightly coloured the inclusions are the stones can appear almost eye clean and therefore SI1 clarity diamonds can offer exceptional value for those wishing to maximise their budget. An SI1 diamond on a GIA, HRD or AGS certificate will in over 50% of cases be eye clean depending on the chosen shape. However, as with the VVS2, this grade of diamonds probably won’t be eye clean on Emerald and Asscher cuts, on any certificate.

Slightly Included 2: SI2

SI2 diamonds have a greater number of inclusions that will almost always be visible to the unaided eye. As with the SI1 clarity diamonds, they can offer great value for money and depending on the inclusions it can be possible to find an eye clean stone at a fraction of the price of higher clarity grades.

I1 or lower

These diamonds will always have inclusions clearly visible to the naked eye, even on the strictest certificates, such as those of the GIA. Even though it is still possible for us to source such diamonds upon request, we would recommend choosing SI2 clarity diamonds or above.

3. Colour Of Diamond

Colour is one of the fundamental attributes of a diamond and colour grades actually refer to how colourless or “white” a stone is. Diamond colour is graded according to the GIA* colour scale, from D to Z, where D is rated as the most colourless, and therefore the most sought after and costly.

Further down the scale, the colours become more yellow and finally brown. However, to the untrained eye, there is little variation in the D-H range and therefore slightly lower grades provide much better value for money while not necessarily appearing vastly different. Stones graded I and below alter in colour and any diamonds graded J and below will be slightly tainted.

Colour: D is the highest colour grade attributed to a diamond, denoting that the stone is completely colourless (white); as such, they are extremely rare and command the highest prices.

Colour: E The colour difference between a D and an E graded stone is usually only visible to an expert gemmologist using master stones as a comparison, although E graded stones are slightly cheaper.

Colour: F The colour difference between an E and an F is only visible to an expert gemmologist using master stones as a comparison. F grades are the lowest and therefore least expensive of the premium colours.

Colour: G graded diamonds are nearly colourless and a slight colour difference only become perceptible when compared to diamonds of grades D or E. G stones appear colourless especially once set and therefore offer excellent value for money.

Colour: H coloured diamonds are near colourless diamonds which still appear totally white or colourless if they are not compared side by side with higher colour graded stones. The H colour is generally considered the watershed between colourless diamonds and slightly tinted diamonds. As a result, the H colour is great value for money and unsurprisingly a very popular option.

Colour: I coloured diamonds are very slightly tinted diamonds, however, once set in jewellery, these stones may appear colourless. If you are looking to maximize your budget, then an I coloured diamond offers great value for money.

Colour: J coloured diamonds are very slightly tinted diamonds, however, once set in jewellery, especially in yellow gold, it is harder to see the slight yellow tint which the J grade produces. If you are looking to maximize your budget or if you have a preference for slightly yellow tinted diamonds, then the J grade is a great option, offering fantastic value for money.

Colour: K coloured diamonds are slightly tinted diamonds, however, once set in jewellery, especially in yellow gold, it is harder to see the slight yellow tint which the K grade produces. If you are looking to maximize your budget or have a preference for slightly yellow tinted diamonds, then the K grade is a great option, offering excellent value for money.

Colour: K – Z lower clarity grades. This can be made available on special request.

Fluorescence

Diamonds that are said to be fluorescent contain particles that emit a visible (usually blue) glow when exposed to UV lighting. In rare cases, high levels of fluorescence can make stones appear milky or hazy, although for the most part fluorescence does not generally impact beauty or sparkle and can even make some lower colours (I, J, K, L, etc.) appear more colourless or white. Nonetheless, fluorescent diamonds are usually cheaper and provided the effect is not readily visible may offer good value for money.

WHY DO DIAMONDS FLUORESCENCE?

Diamond is crystallized carbon. This process occurs about 75-125 miles below the surface of the earth, usually where volcanic or ancient volcanic sites exist. A diamond will become fluorescent if there are traces of the mineral boron present in the earth during the crystallization process.

Diamonds can fluoresce in a variety of colours – blue, yellow, green, orange and white – but blue is the most common. It is estimated that around 50% of all diamonds have fluorescence that can be seen in special conditions e.g. under a short wave UV lamp, while around 10% fluoresce strongly enough to make a noticeable difference to the colour of the diamond when viewed in sunlight or incandescent (low UV) light.

There are five levels of diamond fluorescence described by the GIA: None (i.e. no fluorescence), faint, medium, strong, very strong. According to the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory, strength of fluorescence does not directly correlate to either colour or clarity. In other words, it is possible for two diamonds with completely different clarity and colour grades to exhibit exactly the same strength of fluorescence.

The physical properties of diamond

Diamond

• has a very high melting point (almost 4000°C). Very strong carbon-carbon covalent bonds have to be broken throughout the structure before melting occurs.
• is very hard. This is again due to the need to break very strong covalent bonds operating in 3-dimensions.
• doesn’t conduct electricity. All the electrons are held tightly between the atoms, and aren’t free to move.
• is insoluble in water and organic solvents. There are no possible attractions which could occur between solvent molecules and carbon atoms which could outweigh the attractions between the covalently bound carbon atoms.